Eat & Drink
Location Information
As darkness falls and people busily make their way home, the lively voice of the owner, filled with a passion for sake, can be heard from the small restaurant “Fushimi.” Here, the common izakaya phrase “I’ll start with a draft beer” doesn’t apply. That’s because the only sake they stock is “muroka nama genshu” (unfiltered, undiluted, raw sake) from across the country. The owner, Isao Teramoto, started this shop about 40 years ago to ensure people could enjoy the best possible flavor of these brews, which he sources by traveling nationwide, firmly believing that “this is the only choice for truly delicious sake!” Even if you aren’t a sake expert, don’t worry; Mr. Teramoto will kindly teach you how to appreciate the flavors.
The sake being poured often has a color close to amber, and for good reason. “Muroka nama genshu” is sake that hasn’t undergone the filtration, pasteurization, or water dilution typically required in the brewing process—it’s as if it were taken straight from the brewery’s tank. While it offers the unique umami, richness, and freshness of a new brew, it is rare because its difficult quality control limits the number of breweries that handle it. Mr. Teramoto watches his guests and relies on the intuition gained from years of service to recommend a glass he thinks they will love.
Based on the idea that “people who dislike sake just haven’t encountered a delicious one yet,” Mr. Teramoto confidently recommends a glass that will leave an impression. Since “muroka nama genshu” requires delicate management, he uses a special refrigerator kept at -4°C so guests can enjoy the changes in flavor over the aging period. He has also teamed up with specialized sake wholesalers to ensure a consistent stock of 20 to 30 varieties. The food is equally curated, featuring delicacies like Chiran-style seared local chicken and Toge-shita beef roast beef, all sought out to pair perfectly with fine sake.
Mr. Teramoto carefully selects the next glass, intentionally varying the flavor profiles for the second and third rounds so that you can enjoy the sake to the very end without getting bored. He deeply loves unfiltered, undiluted sake and seems to look forward to discovering new bottles, mentioning, “I’m planning to visit a brewery in Ehime next!”
Once you’ve been completely captivated by the world of “muroka nama genshu,” it’s time to leave Fushimi, though it’s hard to say goodbye. For the next stop, change the pace and head to a bar.
Tucked away in the city area of Takehara is a bar run by a highly skilled bartender who has won numerous categories in national competitions to determine Japan’s best. Its name is “Bar Roberta.” The name comes from the cocktail that won owner Shinsuke Horiuchi the championship at the “PBO Cocktail Festival 2014.”
Gently open the wooden door with its modest sign to find a classical space featuring a striking counter made from a single slab of African cherry wood. As you settle into a chair, Mr. Horiuchi will kindly ask about your drink preferences with a vast array of bottles lined up behind him.
“It all started with a cocktail book I bought as a high school entrance gift,” says Mr. Horiuchi. With the goal of being a bartender who can convey the charm of spirits even to those who don’t know them, he spends his days coming up with new cocktail ideas and refining his techniques and movements behind the counter. In 2019, he won the “PBO National Bartenders Competition,” which tests a bartender’s overall skill, earning him the title of Japan’s best in overall performance.
For those who aren’t particularly fond of alcohol, he offers refreshing cocktails made with Takehara honey and Hiroshima lemons. Mr. Horiuchi creates a wide variety of flavors as if enjoying a session with his guests, carefully listening to their mood and the tastes they crave. He also stocks non-alcoholic cocktails at Roberta, ensuring everyone can enjoy themselves, saying, “I want people who don’t drink alcohol to be able to come here too.”
“It all started with a cocktail book I bought as a high school entrance gift,” says Mr. Horiuchi. With the goal of being a bartender who can convey the charm of spirits even to those who don’t know them, he spends his days coming up with new cocktail ideas and refining his techniques and movements behind the counter. In 2019, he won the “PBO National Bartenders Competition,” which tests a bartender’s overall skill, earning him the title of Japan’s best in overall performance.
Savoring a special drink in Takehara allows a peaceful time to flow, as if your heart is being unburdened. As the night quietly deepens, surrounded by heartfelt hospitality and the comfort of carefully crafted drinks, you’ll find a moment to truly relax. In the midst of busy days, we often put off “time for self-care.” Why not spend such a luxurious moment, unique to traveling, at a hidden gem nestled quietly in the Takehara night?
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Eat & Drink
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Eat & Drink
